Château Belle-Vue, Lebanon
I recently went to Lebanon and visited Château Belle-Vue in the mountain village of Bhamdoun above Beirut. I had been hearing some good things about their wines for some time but was not expecting the incredible story behind their creation.
It was named after the Hotel Belle-Vue, built in 1860 and subsequently destroyed during the civil war in 1983 when the village was literally massacred during the fighting. The town had never truly recovered until the arrival of Naji and Jill Boutros in 1999. Naji was a successful investment banker working for the likes of Merrill Lynch and Colony Capital – Bhamdoun was the town where he was born and after a moment of epiphany decided to move back and begin the renaissance of his hometown.
Their intention was to revitalize the local community and with Naji’s love of food and wine (Colony Capital where the investment company who bought Lascombes in 2000) they decided to do this by replanting the ancient terraced hillside vineyards. Over the last ten years they have steadily bought large amounts of land from property developers at very un-economic prices and planted vineyards. They have a policy of only employing local craftsmen which helps boost the economy of the village and they have created a community library and also donate $1 from every bottle sold to create a scholarship fund for the local school children.
In short they have taken a decimated village and given it a purpose and pride. The comments made by the residents every year in the pickers guest book are very touching.
Joseph Khairallah does an incredible job tending the vineyards and managing the rugged terraces and with the talented Diana Salame who studied oenology in France (ex-Domaine Leflaive) making the wines.
The terroir where these vines are located define the style of these wines, high altitude, caught in the rain shadow of the mountains (that protect the fertile Bekaa valley) and with strong winds that keep these vines dry and pest free, they allow a very natural style of organic viticulture. They receive 5 months of intense rain per year – 1,200mm – twice that of London, followed by 7 months of drought with virtually no rain, the vines are stressed and confused; perfect for quality juice.
Low density plantings of 3,000 vines per hectare because of the rocky, clay and limestone terraces and with the high altitude the skins are thicker and richer in tannin due to high UV exposure (according to Naji’s reckoning) and create full bodied and tannin rich syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot grapes.
After fermentation with natural yeasts and a 18-24 month maturation in 90% of new oak in seguin moreau, radoux and taransaud barrels – with 4-5 rackings – these wines are deep, intense and complex, with elegance and great refinement.
The wines-
2006 Renaissance – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 55% merlot
Deep, high extraction – rich nose of dense black plum, prune and chocolate, very ripe and concentrated, some fine cedar and well scented oak – deep flavor with sweet black fruit, dense dusty and fine grained tannin, well balanced acidity. Youthful and refined. (90)
2006 Le Chateau – 50% syrah, 50% cabernet franc
Dark, dense colour – nose is very ripe with some sweet raspberry pip and smoky syrah character, spicy violet notes, sweet tobacco, vanilla, wood spice and cloves. Very long and complex. (91)
Also there is a tiny production of white wine –
2010 Petit Giest – 85% sauvignon blanc, 15% viognier
Nose floral almost muscat like, smoky and complex. Like a good Rueda. Crisp, firm minerally with fresh and aromatic citrus fruit. (85)
The website is www.chateaubelle-vue.com
These wine are currently available in the UK through Flint wines www.flintwines.com
Phone 0207 582 2500 and ask for Gearoid, Jason or Sam.
