Interview with Ten Lifestyle
A couple of months ago I sat down with Ten Lifestyle and did an “Ask The Expert” style interview about wine and being a sommelier. You can read the interview below, or visit the Ten Lifestyle website.
Ronan Sayburn, director of wine and spirits at Hotel du Vin, is one of only 180 master sommeliers in the world. We’ve asked the former alumnus of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons for his insider tips on wine. Call us to source any of his recommendations, for help with wine storage or to arrange a tour of vineyards across the globe.
How did you get into wine?
It became an irresistible subject to learn about when I realised just how many disciplines it covered – geology, geography, biology, chemistry, food, culture and business. It puts you in contact with talented artisans in a social and relaxed environment, where wine is often a catalyst for great debate and discussion.
What does a sommelier do?
Sixty per cent of the time is spent talking to customers, organising the service and liaising with the chef. The rest of the time wine lists need to be updated, deliveries placed, received and processed, and new wines researched and tasted for the list.
The best part of the role, and the best way to learn, is visiting vineyards. You’re immersed in the culture and history of the region, eating the cuisine and talking to the winemaker in his cellar, surrounded by barrels and fermentation tanks.
What makes a ‘master sommelier’?
The qualification is designed for those dealing with the restaurant environment. The emphasis is on food, service, storage, handling and appreciation of wines. Out of six wines tasted blind you need to identify the grape, country and vintage of at least five, plus give a technical breakdown of the acidity, sugars, tannins, alcohol and fruit characters. Only 180 have passed since 1969. You have to be focused. It took me almost eight years.
What are your tips for matching wine with food?
Focus on the sauce you’re serving rather than the main protein. You can have red wine with fish if it’s a robust fish, such as turbot, served with a red wine sauce, for example. Think about the weight of the dish and the weight of the wine. Light, crisp whites go with salads, shellfish or plain grilled fish, whereas big full-bodied heavy reds go with bold, rich dishes, such as roasted red meats or stews.
And what are your tips for tasting wine?
Think about balance. Wines shouldn’t be overly fruity, acidic, tannic or alcoholic. If any of these tastes stick out too much the wine is unbalanced. Also the length is an important quality factor. How long does the wine persist in your mouth after you have swallowed it?
What are your current favourites for everyday drinking?
Marlborough sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, light German rieslings from the Mosel region, and Chilean pinot noirs from the Leyda valley.
If you wanted to impress what would you go for?
Mature (10-year-old) Pomérols or Saint-Émilion from Bordeaux. They’re starting to sell at ridiculous prices since the Chinese ‘discovered’ Bordeaux, but they’re still the most elegant and refined wines you can buy.
Old World versus New World – does France reign supreme?
Yes, pretty much so, along with Italy, but it depends on your tastes. Looking at value for money and consistency, New Zealand, Chile, Spain and Portugal are making great wines too.
Is it easy to set up a wine collection at home?
Yes. You just need to make sure your wine storage area is consistent in temperature. If it’s too cold (but not freezing), in general your wines will age slowly; if a little warm they will age quickly. But if there are big fluctuations the wines will leak and begin to oxidise. Keep them away from areas that have heating pipes or boilers that are used in winter but not in summer.
It’s easy to buy a good storage unit from a company such as Eurocave. Use a wine merchant for more serious wine purchases that you’re making for investment purposes. They’ll buy and store them for you.
What vintages are good to drink now?
The slightly underrated 2001 vintage in Bordeaux is drinking very well at the moment, but vintages are different all over the world. As a rough guide, Europe can be variable, but many New World countries have constantly good weather so vintage quality doesn’t change too much.
And which vintages are good to keep?
Try the fantastic 2007 ports or the 2009 Bordeaux, even though this is quite an expensive vintage.
What are your autumn wine tips for truffles, oysters and game?
Oysters would go with chablis, sancerre or champagne. Truffles and game would go with mature Piedmontese wines, such as barolo or barbaresco. They’re made from the nebbiolo grape, which takes on a wonderful earthy, gamey character with age.